THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OIL AND ITS ROLE AS NATURAL FRAGRANCES IN PERFUMES

Authors

  • Sujata Sengupta Department of Chemistry, Miranda House, University of Delhi, Delhi-110007, India
  • Shivani Singh Department of Chemistry, Miranda House, University of Delhi, Delhi-110007, India
  • Sharda Mahilkar Sonkar Department of Chemistry, Miranda House, University of Delhi, Delhi-110007, India
  • Anand Sonkar Department of Botany, Hans Raj College, University of Delhi, Delhi-110007, India
  • Nandini Kapoor Department of Chemistry, Hindu College, University of Delhi, Delhi -110007, India
  • Garima Tomar Department of Chemistry, Hindu College, University of Delhi, Delhi -110007, India
  • Shweta Gaur Department of Chemistry, Hindu College, University of Delhi, Delhi -110007, India
  • Aditi Bajaj Department of Chemistry, Hindu College, University of Delhi, Delhi -110007, India

Abstract

Human beings have always been fascinated with the chemistry of fragrances. Since the earliest of times, man has always been interested in imitating nature’s pleasant smells, to find methods to mask or augment their own body odour through the application of perfumes. Traditionally, perfumes comprise of a blend of natural components which together affords the unique pleasant odour. Modern day perfumery is a fusion of art, science and technology, with chemistry as the central science. Majority of the perfumes used today are based on the application of synthetic aroma bearing molecules made available by advances in synthetic organic chemistry. However, with the recent revival in popularity of the use of natural ingredients in cosmeceuticals, this review aims to re-look the chemistry of essential oils and its role as a natural source of fragrance. Development in methods of isolation and extraction of the natural odour bearing compounds are key factors responsible for the growth and development of the perfume industry.

References

I. A Review on Perfumery M.D Nehal Ahmed*, Shaik Naziya, Kathula Supriya, Syed Ammar Ahmed, Guntoju Kalyani, Siga Gnaneshwari, K.N.V. Rao, K. Rajeshwar Dutt World Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences ISSN (Print): 2321-3310; ISSN (Online): 2321-3086 Available online at: http://www.wjpsonline.org/

II. Chemistry Perfumes Your Daily Life Anne-Dominique Fortineau Journal of Chemical Education Vol. 81 No. 1 January 2004 pg 45-50

III. A. Salvador-Carreno, A. Chisvert, PERFUMES, Editor(s): Paul Worsfold, Alan Townshend, Colin Poole, Encyclopedia of Analytical Science (Second Edition), Elsevier, 2005, Pages 36-42, ISBN 9780123693976, https://doi.org/10.1016/B0-12-369397-7/00442-8.

a. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B0123693977004428)

IV. Essential Oils and Fragrances from Natural Sources, Padma S Vankar, Resonance 9(4), 30-41, 2004

V. Mitsui, T. New Cosmetic Science; Elsevier: Amsterdam, New York, 1997.

VI. Perfume and flavor materials of natural origin by Steffen Arctander

VII. A multi-objective optimization approach for the development of a sustainable supply chain of a new fixative in the perfume industry; DOI: https://doi.org/10.1021/SC500.409g

VIII. Babita, S.; Sellam, P.; Jayoti, M.; Puja, R. Floral essential oils: Importance and uses for mankind. HortFlora Res. Spectr. 2014, 3, 7– 13.

IX. Turek, Claudia, and Florian C. Stintzing. "Stability of essential oils: a review." Comprehensive reviews in food science and food safety 12.1 (2013): 40-53. Bakkali, F.; Averbeck, S.; Averbeck, D.; Idaomar, M. Biological effects of essential oils–a review. Food Chem. Toxicol. 2008, 46, 446–475.

X. Tongnuanchan, P.; Benjakul, S. Essential oils: Extraction, bioactivities, and their uses for food preservation. J. Food Sci. 2014, 79, R1231–R1249

XI. Burger, P.; Plainfossé, H.; Brochet, X.; Chemat, F.; Fernandez, X. Extraction of natural fragrance ingredients: History overview and future trends. Chem. Biodivers. 2019, 16, e1900424 this was 12

XII. Becker, K., E. Temiswari , and I. Nemeth, 1994, Patch testing with fragrance mix and its constituents in a Hungarian population. Cont. Dermat., 30:185-186

XIII. Classification of Fragrances https://ahp.alharamainperfumes.com/natural-synthetic-perfume-fragrance-classifications

XIV. Irshad, M.; Subhani, M.A.; Ali, S.; Hussain,A. Biological Importance of Essential Oils, Essential Oils - Oils of Nature, Hany A. El-Shemy, IntechOpen,2020. Available from: https://www.intechopen.com/books/essential-oils-oils-of-nature/biologicalimportance-of-essential-oils

XV. Perfumes; Wolfgang Sturm, Klaus Peters; Ullmann's Encyclopaedia of Industrial Chemistry, 2000; DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/14356007.a19_171

XVI. A Short Guide to Extraction Techniques and Aromatic Materials Rendered Raw Materials

a. by Elena Vosnaki https://www.fragrantica.com/news/A-Short-Guide-to-Extraction-Techniques-and-Aromatic-Materials-Rendered-3676.html

XVII. FACILE METHODS FOR THE EXTRACTION OF ESSENTIAL OIL FROM THE PLANT SPECIES - A REVIEW J. Ranjitha and S. Vijiyalakshmi IJPSR, 2014; Vol. 5(4): 1107-1115. E-ISSN: 0975-8232; P-ISSN: 2320-5148.

XVIII. https://agritech.tnau.ac.in/horticulture/extraction_methods_natural_essential_oil.pdf

XIX. Casse E, Vargas RMF, Martinez N, Lorenzo D, Dellacassa E, Steam distillation modelling for essential oil extraction process, Industrial Crops and Products, 2009; 29(1): 171-176.

XX. Phineas Masango, Cleaner production of essential oils by steam distillation, Journal of Cleaner Production, 2005; 13(8): 833-839.

XXI. Supercritical fluid extraction in plant essential and volatile oil analysis. Pourmortazavi SM, Hajimirsadeghi SS, J Chromatogr A. 2007 Sep 7; 1163(1-2):2-24.

XXII. Reverchon E. Supercritical fluid extraction and fractionation of essential oils and related products. J. Supercrit. Fluids. 1997;10:1–37. doi: 10.1016/S0896-8446(97)00014-4.

XXIII. Domingues R.M., de Melo M.M., Oliveira E.L., Neto C.P., Silvestre A.J., Silva C.M. Optimization of the supercritical fluid extraction of triterpenic acids from Eucalyptus globulus bark using experimental design. J. Supercrit. Fluids. 2013;74:105–114. doi: 10.1016/j.supflu.2012.12.005.

XXIV. Da Porto C., Decorti D., Kikic I. Flavour compounds of Lavandula angustifolia L. to use in food manufacturing: Comparison of three different extraction methods. Food Chem. 2009;112:1072–1078. doi: 10.1016/j.foodchem.2008.07.015.

XXV. Isolation of essential oil from different plants and herbs 4 by supercritical fluid extraction Tiziana Fornari*, Gonzalo Vicente, Erika Vázquez, Mónica R. García9 Risco, Guillermo Reglero, https://digital.csic.es/bitstream/10261/101365/1/Isolation%20of%20essential%20oil.pdf

XXVI. Pressurized fluid extraction of essential oil from Lavandula hybrida using a modified supercritical fluid extractor and a central composite design for optimization. Kamali H, Jalilvand MR, Aminimoghadamfarouj N J Sep Sci. 2012 Jun; 35(12):1479-85.

XXVII. Marie E Lucchesi, Farid Chematt, Jacqueline Smadja, Solvent-free microwave extraction of essential oil from aromatic herbs: comparison with conventional hydro-distillation, Journal of Chromatography A, 2004; 1043(2): 323-327.

XXVIII. Microwave assisted extraction of phytochemicals an efficient and modern approach for botanicals and pharmaceuticals Iqra Akhtar, Sumera Javad, Zubaida Yousaf, Sumera Iqbal and Khajista Jabeen Dept. of Botany, Lahore College for Women University, Lahore, Pakistan

XXIX. Chouhan, S.; Sharma, K.; Guleria, S. Antimicrobial activity of some essential oils—Present status and future perspectives. Medicines 2017, 4, 58

XXX. Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

a. Jugreet B. Sharmeen 1, Fawzi M. Mahomoodally, Gokhan Zengin and Filippo Maggi, Molecules 2021, 26, 666. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26030666

XXXI. Terpenes, Phenylpropanoids, Sulfur and Other Essential Oil Constituents as Inhibitors of Cholinesterases Author(s): Franko Burčul, Ivica Blažević, Mila Radan, Olivera Politeo*

a. Journal Name: Current Medicinal Chemistry Volume 27 , Issue 26 , 2020

XXXII. Vogt T. (2010) Phenylpropanoid biosynthesis. Molecular Plant, 3, 2-20

XXXIII. Phenylpropanoid constituents of essential oils, H Friedrich, PMID: 775232

XXXIV. Rajeswara Rao, B.R. & Pandu Sastry, Kakaraparthi. (2003). Major Essential Oils Of South India - A Perspective, FAFAI Journal. 5. 19-24.

XXXV. H. Baydar (2006). Oil-bearing rose (Rosa damascena Mill.) cultivation and rose oil industry in Turkey, Euro Cosmetics 14, 13-17

XXXVI. Volatile constituents of essential oil and rose water of damask rose (Rosa damascena Mill.) cultivars from North Indian hills, Ram Swaroop Verma, Rajendra Chandra Padalia, Amit Chauhan, Anand Singh &Ajai Kumar Yadav, Natural Product Research, Formerly Natural Product Letters, Volume 25, 2011 - Issue 17 Pages 1577-1584 | DOI : 10.2174/0929867325666180330092607

XXXVII. Variation in Scent Compounds of Oil-Bearing Rose (Rosa damascena Mill.); Produced by Headspace Solid Phase Microextraction, Hydro distillation and Solvent Extraction, Sabri Erbaş and H. Baydar Article in Records of Natural Products • September 2016

XXXVIII. Jones CG, Plummer JA, Barbour EL. 2007. Non-destructive sampling of Indian sandalwood for oil content and composition. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 19: 157−164

XXXIX. Essential oil content and composition of Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) in Sri Lanka

a. Upul Subasinghe, Manuri Gamage, D.S. Hettiarachchi Journal of Forestry Research (2013) 24(1): 127−130 DOI 10.1007/s11676-013-0331-3

XL. Variation in heartwood oil composition of young sandalwood trees in the south Pacific (Santalum yasi, S. album and F1 hybrids in Fiji, and S. yasi in Tonga and Niue). Doran JC, Thomson L, Brophy JJ, Goldsack B, Bulai P, Faka'osi T, Mokoia T. Sandalwood Research Newsletter, 2005. 20: 3−7.

XLI. Process optimization of sandalwood (Santalum album) oil extraction by subcritical carbon dioxide and conventional techniques, Omprakash H Nautiyal, Indian Journal of Chemical Technology Vol. 21, July 2014, pp. 290-297

XLII. Sandalwood Album Oil as a Botanical Therapeutic in Dermatology; J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Oct; 10(10): 34–39

XLIII. Masomeh L, Narges M, Hassan R, Hadi A (2017) Peppermint and Its Functionality: A Review. Arch Clin Microbiol. Vol. 8 No. 4:54. doi:10.4172/1989-8436.100054

XLIV. Quantity and chemical composition of essential oil of peppermint (Mentha × piperita L.) leaves under different drying methods. Mohsen Beigi, Mehdi Torki-Harchegani &Abdollah Ghasemi Pirbalouti, International Journal of Food Properties Volume 21, 2018 - Issue 1 Pages 267-276 | Received 11 Sep 2017 https://doi.org/10.1080/10942912.2018.1453839

XLV. Chemical Composition and Antioxidant Properties of Essential Oils from Peppermint, Native Spearmint and Scotch Spearmint Zhaohai Wu, Bie Tan, Yanhong Liu, James Dunn, Patricia Martorell Guerola, Marta Tortajada, Zhijun Cao and Peng Ji, Molecules 2019, 24, 2825; doi:10.3390/molecules24152825

XLVI. Extraction and Characterization of Peppermint (Mentha piperita) Essential Oil and its Assessment as Antioxidant and Antibacterial Azhari Siddeeg*, Zakaria A. Salih, Rabab M. E. Mukhtar & Ali O. Ali Gezira Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences vol 13 (1)2018.

XLVII. Rakhee, Jigni Mishra, Raj K. Sharma, Kshipra Misra, Chapter 9 - Characterization Techniques for Herbal Products, Editor(s): Kshipra Misra, Priyanka Sharma, Anuja Bhardwaj, Management of High Altitude Pathophysiology, Academic Press, 2018, Pages 171-202, ISBN 9780128139998, https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-813999-8.00009-4. (https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780128139998000094)

XLVIII. Therapeutic Uses of Peppermint –A Review; Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research 7(7):474-476

XLIX. Haque, A.N.M.A.; Remadevi, R.; Naebe, M. Lemongrass (Cymbopogon): A review on its structure, properties, applications and recent developments. Cellulose 2018, 25, 5455–5477.

L. Abdulazeez, MA., In: V.R. Preedy, Essential Oils in Food Preservation, Flavor and Safety, Elsevier, Amsterdam, 2016. p. 509-516.

LI. Coelho, M., Rocha, C., Cunha, L. M., Cardoso, L., Alves, L., Lima, R. C., Pintado, M. (2016). Influence of harvesting factors on sensory attributes and phenolic and aroma compounds composition of Cymbopogon citratus leaves infusions. Food Research International, 89, 1029–1037. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2016.07.008

LII. Chemical composition and citral content in lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) essential oil at three maturity stages Tajidin, N. E., Ahmad, S. H *, Rosenani, A. B.2 , Azimah, H.1 and Munirah, M. African Journal of Biotechnology Vol. 11(11), pp. 2685-2693, 7 February, 2012 Available online at http://www.academicjournals.org/AJB DOI: 10.5897/AJB11.2939 ISSN 1684–5315

LIII. Schaneberg, B.T.; Khan, I.A. Comparison of Extraction Methods for Marker Compounds in the Essential Oil of Lemon Grass by GC. J. Agric. Food Chem. 2002, 50, 1345–1349.

LIV. Wu, H., Li, J., Jia, Y., Xiao, Z., Li, P., Xie, Y., Zhang, A., Liu, R., Ren, Z., Zhao, M., Zeng, Ch., Li, Ch. (2019). Essential oil extracted from Cymbopogon citronella leaves by supercritical carbon dioxide: antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. Journal of Analytical Methods in Chemistry, art. no. 8192439.

LV. Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) Essential Oil: Extraction, Composition, Bioactivity and Uses for Food Preservation- a Review Ewa Majewska*, Mariola Koz owska, Eliza Gruczy ska-S kowska, Dorota Kowalska, Katarzyna Tarnowska Pol. J. Food Nutr. Sci., 2019, Vol. 69, No. 4, pp. 327-341 DOI: 10.31883/pjfns/113152

LVI. Desai, M.A., Parikh, J. (2015). Extraction of essential oil from leaves of lemongrass using microwave radiation: optimization, comparative, kinetic, and biological studies. ACS Sustainable Chemistry and Engineering, 3(3), 421-431

LVII. Alhassan, M., Lawal, A., Nasiru, Y., Suleiman, M., Sa ya, A.M., Bello, N. (2018). Extraction and formulation of perfume from locally available lemon grass leaves. ChemSearch Journal, 9(2), 40-44.

LVIII. Guenther, E. (1950). The essential oils, IV. D. Van Nostrad company. Inc., New York, USA, pp 20-65.

Additional Files

Published

15-11-2021

How to Cite

Sujata Sengupta, Shivani Singh, Sharda Mahilkar Sonkar, Anand Sonkar, Nandini Kapoor, Garima Tomar, Shweta Gaur, & Aditi Bajaj. (2021). THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OIL AND ITS ROLE AS NATURAL FRAGRANCES IN PERFUMES . International Education and Research Journal (IERJ), 7(11). Retrieved from https://ierj.in/journal/index.php/ierj/article/view/2369